Take Off
Beginner
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1879 riders can do it
Take off is that exact moment when the waves finally picks you up, liftes your board above the surface of the water, and you begin sliding along the wave with increased speed.
How do it
The major skill a surfer hones in his first years of riding is the ability to catch waves. It’s not a simple process, but there are some simple rules that will make it easier.
1.
Choose waves of appropriate steepness. This might be challenging at first, but in time you’ll get a handle on which waves work for you.
2.
Paddle to the spot where you believe the wave will break.
3.
If the wave has already begun to break, then you need to position yourself at the junction of the foam and shoulder (the unbroken part of the wave). If it hasn't begun to break, then your position should be right on the crest.
4.
Fast waves can be caught off from the crest, if the steepness is sufficient.
5.
When paddling out, watch the wave. Keep the crest in your line of sight. This will let you know where to paddle and how the wave is behaving.
6.
Once you’re on the wave, begin looking for where you’re going to ride. If the crest is breaking to your left, then you’ll be riding to the right, and vice versa.
7.
Paddling doesn't end, it speeds up. You need to perform four fast and powerful strokes. If that proves insufficient, do a couple more, until you feel that the wave has caught you.
8.
As soon as you feel the wave catch you, begin to stand up.