Catch a Wave
Beginner
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3904 riders can do it
It is a move when you start paddling, the wave starts to pick you up, and your board is sliding along the wave.
How do it
To successfully master the art of surfing, the first thing we need to do is learn how to catch a wave, which board to choose — and what to avoid.
1.
Get a larger board. Either a special softboard or a regular board no shorter than 8 feet. A larger board will help your progress. A short one will inhibit it.
2.
Go into the water with your board held to the side, both arms on the board, close to the nose. Never place the board broadways in front of a wave. The nose or tail should always be pointing towards the ocean.
3.
Once the water is waist‑high, turn around and face the shore, so that the nose of the board is pointing towards it.
4.
Place your arms closer to the center of the board.
5.
Look towards the ocean and wait for incoming wave foam. The moment it touches the end of the board, push off from the bottom and jump onto the board. You should now be lying on it with your entire body.
6.
Don’t push off before the wave, wait until it touches the board. The wave will pick you up only if you match it’s speed. If you push off too early or too late, you won’t be riding anywhere.
7.
While riding the wave, position yourself so that the nose of the board doesn't rise too high above the water or go under the water. The board should be as flat as possible against the surface.
8.
Try to stay straight and ride to the shore in a direct line. Don’t let your legs drop off the side of the board, this will cause you to brake. If you feel yourself tilting to the side, this means your need to adjust your position on the board.